Hibiscus Flowers

Hibiscus Flowers — INCI Information

INCI name (whole dried flowers): Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower
INCI name (ground flowers): Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder
INCI name (extract): Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Botanical name: Hibiscus sabdariffa L.
Common names: Hibiscus, Roselle, Red Sorrel, Jamaica Sorrel
Plant family: Malvaceae
Part used: Dried flowers—commercial material is commonly composed mainly of the red calyces
CAS number: 84775-96-2
EC number: 283-920-7

Product description

Hibiscus Flowers are dried botanical material obtained from Hibiscus sabdariffa. They have a deep red-to-burgundy color and contain naturally occurring anthocyanin pigments. Hibiscus is incorporated into cosmetic products for its color, botanical appearance and exfoliating texture.

The European Commission recognizes both Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower for whole plant material and Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder for the ground form. 

Cosmetic functions

• Abrasive and exfoliating

• Natural botanical colour

• Skin-conditioning support when used as an extract

• Adds visual interest to soaps and bath products

• Helps improve the appearance of dull skin through gentle physical exfoliation

The official cosmetic function listed for the flower powder is abrasive, while the flower extract is classified as skin-conditioning. 

Physical properties

Appearance: Dark red, burgundy or reddish-purple dried flowers
Odour: Mildly floral, fruity and tart
Solubility: Insoluble in water and oil; natural pigments and some constituents may infuse into water
Colour stability: Sensitive to pH, heat, light and oxidation
Typical usage rate:

• Facial masks and cleansing powders: 1–5%

• Body scrubs: 1–5%

• Soap: 0.5–3%

• Hair masks and herbal hair powders: 1–10%

• Bath salts and bath teas: 1–10%

• Decorative botanical applications: As required

Formulation guidance

Finely grind or sieve the flowers before using them in facial products to prevent excessive abrasion. The anthocyanin color is normally red or pink under acidic conditions but can turn purple, blue, grey or brown in neutral-to-alkaline formulations. Hibiscus therefore does not produce a reliable red color in cold-process soap.

Dried flowers can introduce microorganisms into water-based formulations. Use cosmetic-grade material, an effective preservative system and appropriate microbial and stability testing.